What’s Eating My Shrubs? A NC Guide to Leaf-Chewing Pests

By Ken Erickson · Updated June 2026

Leaf eating insects are behind most of that ragged, chewed, lace-like damage on shrubs and trees. If you are standing in your yard looking at ragged holes, notched edges, leaves chewed down to lace, or a shrub that got stripped bare in what felt like a week, you are dealing with a leaf-chewing pest. Out here in Raleigh’s southern suburbs – Fuquay-Varina, Holly Springs, Apex, Cary, Garner – these are some of the most common calls we get on trees and shrubs. Chewing pests are different from the sap-suckers like aphids and spider mites: sap-suckers leave stippling, sticky residue, and curled leaves, but chewers leave real, physical damage you can put your finger through. Three groups cause most of the trouble in our area – bagworms on evergreens, Japanese beetles on roses and crepe myrtle, and web-building caterpillars in shade trees. I am licensed in North Carolina to work on turf and ornamental plants like shrubs and trees, so below I will walk you through how to tell them apart. If you would rather just have us handle it, text me at 984-284-5399.

Key takeaways

  • Chewing pests leave physical damage you can see – actual holes, notched edges, lacy skeletonized leaves, or whole branches stripped bare – different from sap-suckers that cause stippling and sticky residue.
  • Bagworms are the most dangerous of the group in NC because they hit evergreens – Leyland cypress, arborvitae, juniper, cedar – and a defoliated evergreen cannot regrow its needles.
  • Japanese beetles are the classic summer skeletonizer – metallic green-and-copper beetles that eat the tissue between leaf veins, hammering roses, crepe myrtle, and Japanese maple from June into midsummer.
  • Not every web in a tree is the same pest – fall webworms build loose nests on the outer branch tips in late summer, while eastern tent caterpillars build tight tents in branch crotches in spring.
  • Timing decides everything, especially with bagworms: the bags you see in late summer are already sealed and full of next year’s eggs, so the window to treat is early, when the tiny caterpillars first emerge.

Leaf Eating Insects: What is eating my shrub or tree leaves?

Start with the damage, because the damage tells you the pest. Round or irregular holes chewed through the middle of the leaf usually mean caterpillars or slugs; ragged notches bitten inward from the leaf edge point to beetles or weevils; a lacy, see-through leaf where only the veins are left is skeletonizing, the calling card of Japanese beetles. Whole branches or evergreens stripped bare fast is defoliation, and on evergreens that almost always means bagworms. The other big clue is speed and season: chewing damage shows up as physical, missing tissue, while sap-sucking pests leave stippling, stickiness, and curl instead. Once you know which pattern you are looking at, the rest of this guide points you to the culprit. If the damage looks more like stippling, sticky residue, or cottony tufts than chewing, you may be dealing with sap-sucking pests instead.

Bagworm Chewing cedar in North Carolina by Lawn Panther
A bagworm larva feeding on arborvitae, dragging the spindle-shaped case it built from the plant’s own foliage — the little bags are what you’ll notice first.

Bagworms on Leyland cypress, arborvitae, and juniper

Bagworms are the one I want NC homeowners to catch early, because they go after evergreens and evergreens do not bounce back. The dead giveaway is a spindle-shaped, cone-like bag – one to two inches long – hanging off the branch, covered in bits of the plant’s own needles, so people constantly mistake them for small cones or seed pods. Inside each bag is a caterpillar that never really leaves it; the females stay inside for life and lay 500 to 1,000 eggs in the bag before dying in fall. They are most common on Leyland cypress, arborvitae, cedar, juniper, and pine, and a heavy population can defoliate and kill whole sections of a screen or hedge. Because the females cannot fly, an infestation often stays concentrated – you might see only four or five plants in a long hedgerow hit hard. If your privacy screen is thinning out in patches, look closely for the bags before you write it off as winter burn.

Japanese beetles and skeletonized leaves

Japanese beetles are the metallic, half-inch beetles – shiny green with coppery-brown wing covers – that show up on warm summer days and cluster on the plants they love. Their damage is unmistakable: they eat the soft tissue between the veins and leave the veins behind, so the leaf ends up looking like green lace, which is called skeletonizing. In our area they emerge as early as mid-to-late spring and peak in the heat of July, and they pile onto roses, crepe myrtle, Japanese maple, linden, and ornamental cherry – they will feed on hundreds of plant species. They are also social feeders: damaged leaves and the beetles themselves release odors that pull in even more beetles, so a small problem snowballs. Healthy, established plants usually survive the season, but the ragged, chewed look on a specimen crepe myrtle or a prized rose is what makes people want them gone.

Pest

Damage you see

Common NC hosts

When

Bagworms

Spindle-shaped bags like small cones; needles stripped; evergreen sections thinning

Leyland cypress, arborvitae, juniper, cedar, pine

Hatch late spring (May-June); bags visible late summer to winter

Japanese beetles

Lacy, skeletonized leaves; chewed petals; beetles clustered on plants

Roses, crepe myrtle, Japanese maple, linden, cherry

Emerge mid-to-late spring; peak in July

Fall webworm

Loose, messy webs on the outer branch tips; leaves eaten inside

Pecan, sourwood, persimmon, hickory, sycamore, fruit trees

Early summer through fall

Eastern tent caterpillar

Tight, cottony tent in branch crotches; leaves chewed near the nest

Wild cherry, crabapple, apple

Spring

Sawfly larvae

Caterpillar-like larvae chewing holes and notches; no webbing

Various shrubs and trees

Spring to summer

Caterpillars and webworms: what’s making webs in my trees?

If you are seeing webbing in a tree, it is almost always one of two caterpillars, and where the web sits tells you which. Fall webworms build loose, messy, silk nests out on the ends of the branches and get active from early summer through fall – they feed inside the web and enclose more leaves as they grow, hitting pecan, sourwood, persimmon, hickory, sycamore, and fruit trees. Eastern tent caterpillars are the spring version: they build a tight, dense, cottony tent in the crotch where branches fork, then leave the tent to feed, and they favor cherry, crabapple, and apple. There are also sawfly larvae, which look like small caterpillars and chew shrub and tree foliage without any web at all. The good news is that on established, healthy shade trees the damage from these web-builders is usually cosmetic rather than life-threatening – it looks alarming but the tree recovers.

10 Caterpillar intent on eating leaves in North Carolina by Lawn Panther
Caterpillars can strip a shrub fast, chewing ragged holes and notches from the leaf edges inward.
Japanese beetles in North Carolina by Lawn Panther
Japanese beetles skeletonize leaves — eating the tissue between the veins and leaving a lacy skeleton. They feed in groups, so damage spreads quickly.

When to treat leaf-chewing pests, and why timing matters

Timing is the difference between fixing the problem and just documenting it – nowhere more than with bagworms. The bags you notice in August are already sealed tight and packed with next year’s eggs, so by then treatment does almost nothing; the real window is late spring into early summer, when the tiny new caterpillars first emerge and are still exposed and vulnerable. Japanese beetles are a summer job caught at first sight before the crowd builds. Web-building caterpillars are easiest to knock back while the nests are small and the caterpillars are young. The universal fallback that works in any season is physical removal – hand-picking bags off evergreens in fall and winter, breaking open webs so birds and wasps can get at the caterpillars, or dropping beetles into soapy water. Miss the window and you are usually waiting for next year, which is exactly why scouting early pays off.

Should you DIY it or call a pro?

Plenty of these you can handle yourself, and I will tell you straight when to. If you have got a few bagworm bags on a small shrub, a light dusting of Japanese beetles you can knock into a bucket, or one reachable webworm nest, that is a DIY afternoon – hand-removal genuinely works. Where it is worth a call is when the plant is too tall to reach, when a whole Leyland or arborvitae screen is infested and you are at risk of losing the planting, when the same pest comes back year after year, or when you simply want the timing handled so the treatment actually lands in the right window. That is the value of a program – someone scouting your shrubs and trees on a schedule catches bagworms in the emergence window instead of after the damage is done. We are licensed in North Carolina to treat turf and ornamental plants, so if you want it off your plate, our tree and shrub program covers exactly this. Text 984-284-5399 for a quote.

Frequently Asked Questions

Look at the damage to narrow it down. Round holes in the middle of leaves usually mean caterpillars; notches bitten in from the edge point to beetles or weevils; a lacy, skeletonized leaf is Japanese beetle work; and evergreen needles stripped bare with little cone-shaped bags hanging on the branches means bagworms. The pattern of the damage is the fastest way to identify the pest.

Those are bagworms – caterpillars that build a spindle-shaped bag out of silk and bits of your plant’s own foliage, which is why they look like little cones or seed pods. Each bag holds a caterpillar, and in fall the females fill the bag with 500 to 1,000 eggs for next spring. Do not ignore them; on evergreens they can defoliate and kill whole sections.

The most reliable method any time of year is to hand-pick the bags off and destroy them, ideally in fall and winter before the eggs hatch – each bag you remove is up to a thousand fewer bagworms in spring. If you are treating rather than picking, the window is late spring when the tiny caterpillars first emerge, because once the bags are sealed, sprays do not get inside. A heavily infested screen is worth having a pro handle so the timing is right.

Yes, especially to evergreens. On conifers like Leyland cypress, arborvitae, juniper, and pine, a heavy bagworm population can strip the foliage, and a defoliated evergreen cannot push out a new set of needles – so branches or entire plants can die. On deciduous trees they are usually less serious, but on a privacy screen they are a real threat worth acting on.

For small numbers, hand-pick them in the cool of the morning and drop them into a bucket of soapy water – it is simple and it works. Avoid pheromone traps near the plants you are protecting; they tend to attract more beetles than they catch. If they are overwhelming a prized crepe myrtle or rose bed year after year, a scheduled treatment on your ornamentals is the more practical fix.

Almost always one of two caterpillars. Loose, messy webs out on the branch tips in late summer are fall webworms; tight, cottony tents tucked in the crotch where branches fork in spring are eastern tent caterpillars. Where the web sits is the quickest way to tell them apart.

Usually not. On established, healthy shade trees the damage from fall webworms and tent caterpillars is mostly cosmetic – the tree looks rough for a while but recovers. It matters more on young, small, or already-stressed trees, or when the same tree gets hit hard several years running.

Chewing pests. Caterpillars and sawfly larvae eat holes through the leaf, slugs leave larger ragged holes toward the center (often with slime trails), and beetles and weevils notch the edges. If the leaf is chewed down to a lacy skeleton instead of holed, that is Japanese beetles. Matching the hole pattern to the pest tells you what you are up against.

Yes. Our Tree and Shrub Maintenance Plan keeps your ornamentals healthy year-round — scheduled inspections plus insect and disease treatment by licensed applicators, so problems get caught early instead of after the damage shows. One team handles the whole yard, turf and shrubs alike.

Holes, Skeletonized Leaves, or Bags on Your Evergreens?

Chewing pests – especially bagworms on evergreens – have to be caught in the right window. We scout and treat trees and shrubs across the southern Raleigh suburbs. Text us for a quote. For a professional inspection and treatment, see our tree and shrub pest control service, or keep chewing pests off your plants year-round with our tree and shrub maintenance plan.

Sources

NC State Extension – Bagworms in Ornamental Landscapes

NC State Extension – Japanese Beetles on Ornamental Landscape Plants

Clemson Cooperative Extension HGIC – Fall Webworm Management

Clemson Cooperative Extension HGIC – IPM for Evergreen Bagworms

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Ken Erickson Chief of Ops
Ken is the unofficial chief of operations for LawnPanther.com. He handles the website content, marketing, engineering, as well as running the turf and weed control side of the business. Ken resides in Fuquay-Varina, North Carolina, holds a license for applying herbicides and pesticides on lawns and ornamental plants with the state of North Carolina. His background is in environmental biology, chemistry, and safety engineering, working for the USDOE in both research and administration. He plays a supporting role, helping his son Aidan run Lawn Panther. He formulates the herbicide and fertilizer programs applied across the south Raleigh suburbs for Lawn Panther. Ken is a life member of the American Foreign Legion, Post 116 and the Disabled American Veterans. He holds a BS in Marine Science, an MS in Environmental Science, and a MS in Public Health (MSPH) and brings decades of retired-career experience in chemical oceanographic research, chemical and biological safety, and environmental health management. Since Ken has been retired he spends his time in his large yard planting and cultivating landscapes. He is very familiar with most of the ornamentals grown in the south as well as diseases and treatments. Ken writes Lawn Panther's technical content on turf science, weed identification, pesticide handling, application safety, and environmental stewardship — translating regulated-industry experience into practical guidance for homeowners and HOAs. He personally comes out to consult with clients regarding many issues on plant health. Ken is certified through Hunter University as a Lighting Designer and a Lighting Specialist — the manufacturer training program behind FX Luminaire landscape lighting — and applies that design and troubleshooting background to Lawn Panther’s landscape and holiday lighting work.