Fast Growing Trees and Privacy Shrubs for North Carolina (That Beat Leyland Cypress)

By Ken Erickson · Updated June 2026

Fast growing privacy trees are how you get a real screen in a few seasons instead of a decade. Out here in the southern suburbs, a huge share of the new homes went up on cleared farmland – no mature trees, no privacy, and a neighbor’s window looking right into your backyard. A living privacy screen is the fix, but the plant you choose matters enormously, because the default pick for decades is now the worst one. Here is what actually works for a NC privacy screen, what to avoid, and how to space it so it fills in. Landscaping a brand-new yard? A privacy screen goes in early — see the right order to landscape a blank yard.

Key takeaways

  • Thuja Green Giant arborvitae is the fast-growing screen king – about 3 feet a year, 40 to 60 feet tall, disease-resistant, and it handles NC heat and humidity far better than Leyland cypress.
  • Skip Leyland cypress. It is now plagued by canker, bagworms, and root rot in our climate, grows too big, and dies young – the cankers are untreatable and spread down the whole row.
  • The best workhorses are Green Giant, Nellie Stevens holly, and cryptomeria Radicans, with native eastern red cedar and wax myrtle for tough, informal screens.
  • Spacing makes or breaks a screen. Space to the plant’s mature width, not to fill in fast – a single row for most yards, or a staggered double row for a faster, solid wall.
  • Mix your species. A single-species hedge can be wiped out by one disease, so a mixed screen is more resilient and looks better year-round.

Fast Growing Privacy Trees: What Makes a Good Screen in North Carolina?

A good screen is evergreen, dense all the way to the ground, and sized to the job – tall enough to block the view but not so huge it swallows the yard or crowds the house. Here that also means it has to shrug off our humid summers (which breed disease on the wrong plants) and tolerate heavy Piedmont clay. And it has to be spaced right. The table below lays out the reliable choices; then we will talk about the one everybody plants that you should not.

The fast-growing workhorses

These three do the heavy lifting for most yards:

Nellie Stevens holly

This is the one I reach for most. Nellie Stevens is a dense, dark-green broadleaf evergreen that grows fast for a holly – about 2 to 3 feet a year – and tops out around 15 to 25 feet, so it screens a two-story window without becoming the 60-foot monster a Leyland turns into. It holds its branches to the ground, shrugs off most disease, is mildly deer-resistant, and sets bright red winter berries without needing a male plant nearby. Space them about 5 to 6 feet apart for a solid wall. If you plant one thing off this list, plant this.

‘Green Giant’ arborvitae

Green Giant, a Thuja hybrid, is the other go-to – the plant most nurseries hand you when you ask for a Leyland replacement, and for good reason. It’s a soft, feathery evergreen that can put on 3 feet or more a year while young, matures around 30 to 40 feet tall and 10 to 12 feet wide, and it doesn’t get the killer cankers or bagworm blowups that take Leylands down. Give it full sun and set it 5 to 6 feet on center for a screen, wider if you want each tree to keep its full shape.

Waxleaf privet

I’ll be honest, privet is one of my favorites for a privacy screen down here. It grows fast, it’s evergreen, the deer leave it alone, and it throws little white flowers in spring that are actually pretty and smell great. Best of all is the upkeep – a privet only needs shearing about once a year to stay tight, where a holly usually wants it twice. Plant it right up against a fence and it fills in fast. The one thing you have to know going in: NC State Extension lists privet – even the waxleaf and Japanese types – as invasive in North Carolina, because birds eat the berries and carry the seed off into woodlines and fencerows. Shearing it so it doesn’t fruit heavily helps keep it in check, but plant it with your eyes open.

Loropetalum (Chinese fringe flower)

You’ll see loropetalum used as a privacy hedge all over down here, usually a few planted together and sheared into big globes. It’s not my favorite, but it works – plant two or three together and you get a nice full shrub, and the burgundy foliage looks sharp against a fence. A couple of honest warnings from doing it for a living: the little leaves shed constantly and stick to everything – dog fur, fleece jackets, and they track right into the house. It also grows fast and wants shearing three or four times a year to stay small, or it gets away from you. And check before you cut – wasps love to nest down inside loropetalum, and I’ve been stung more than once trimming them. Give the shrub a hard shake and watch it for a few seconds before you start. Whatever you plant, keeping it sheared on schedule is what makes a screen look sharp – here is how to trim evergreen hedges the right way.

Plant

Evergreen / size

Growth rate

Spacing / note

Thuja Green Giant arborvitae

40-60 ft tall, 12-20 ft wide

Fast (~3+ ft/yr)

8-12 ft apart; the screen king; dislikes wet feet

Nellie Stevens holly

15-25 ft tall, 8-10 ft wide

Moderate (~2-3 ft/yr)

5-6 ft apart; dense, red berries, clay-tolerant

Cryptomeria Radicans

30-40+ ft tall

Fast (~3+ ft/yr)

5-8 ft apart; the soft Leyland alternative

Eastern red cedar (native)

40-50 ft tall

Slow-moderate

8-10 ft apart; native, drought and clay tough

Wax myrtle (native)

15-25 ft tall/wide

Fast (~2 ft/yr)

5-10 ft apart; fast informal screen, aromatic

American holly (native)

40-50 ft tall

Slow

15+ ft apart; long-lived structure; needs a male for berries

Emerald Green arborvitae

10-15 ft tall, 3-4 ft wide

Slow (~1 ft/yr)

3-4 ft apart; for tight side yards

American hollys grown into a hedge in North Carolina by Lawn Panther
American hollies grown into a dense privacy hedge – the low-maintenance, deer-proof screen we reach for most. Photo: Lawn Panther.

Native and tough options

If you want a screen that basically takes care of itself, the natives are hard to beat. Eastern red cedar is a tough, drought- and clay-tolerant native conifer – just keep it away from apple and crabapple trees, since they share a rust disease. Wax myrtle is a fast, aromatic, informal screen that handles almost any soil and gives you a looser, more natural look than a formal hedge. American holly is slower but builds real structure and longevity, plus berries for the birds. Natives also support local wildlife, which is a nice bonus over a wall of imported arborvitae.

American holly

If you want a native, American holly (Ilex opaca) is the classic – a pyramidal evergreen that has screened Carolina yards since long before any of us got here. It’s slower than Nellie Stevens, but it’s tough as nails, feeds birds all winter, and is one of the most deer-resistant screens you can plant. One catch: American holly needs a male plant nearby for the females to set those red berries, so plant a few. Great for a bigger property where you’re not in a hurry.

Why you should avoid Leyland cypress

For years Leyland cypress was the default privacy tree, and I still see it planted everywhere – please do not. In our hot, humid climate it has become a magnet for problems: seiridium and botryosphaeria canker (which are untreatable and kill branches, then whole trees, spreading right down the row), bagworms, spider mites, and root rot in wet clay. On top of that it grows enormous, far bigger than most people expect, and it is short-lived. When one dies in the middle of a row, you get a gap you cannot easily fill. Plant Green Giant arborvitae or cryptomeria Radicans instead – same fast screen, a fraction of the heartache.

Tree and Shrub Planting by Lawn Panther
Young privacy shrubs freshly planted – space them right and they fill into a solid screen. Photo: Lawn Panther.
Prove it hedge with white flowers in North Carolina by  Lawn Panther
A privet hedge in spring bloom – fast and fragrant, but plant it knowing NC lists privet as invasive. Photo: Lawn Panther.

How to space and plant a privacy screen

The most common mistake is planting too close to fill in fast. Space to the mature width in the table – crowd them and they compete, thin out in the middle, and stress into disease. For most yards a single row does the job. If you want a faster, denser, more solid wall – common on a wide-open new-build lot – plant a staggered double row, offsetting the two rows so the gaps overlap. Whatever you plant, water deeply and regularly the first year or two to get the roots established; that first season is what determines whether the screen takes off or limps along. Fall or early spring is the best time to plant.

Pro install vs. DIY

A handful of arborvitae along a fence line is a doable weekend if you can dig in clay and haul water. Where people bring us in is the bigger project: laying out a long or staggered screen so the spacing and sightlines are right, sourcing good-sized plants, and getting them in and established on a blank lot where there is no shade and no help from existing trees. That is exactly the kind of work we do in the southern suburbs. Text us at 984-284-5399 and we will help you screen the yard right the first time.

Frequently Asked Questions

Thuja Green Giant arborvitae, at roughly 3 feet or more a year, is the fastest reliable evergreen screen for North Carolina. Wax myrtle and cryptomeria are close behind.

Thuja Green Giant and cryptomeria Radicans are the two best swaps – a similar look and speed with far more disease resistance in our humidity.

In NC it is prone to untreatable canker diseases, bagworms, and root rot; it also grows too large and is short-lived. When one dies mid-row, you get a gap that is hard to fill.

Space to the mature width – about 5 to 6 feet for Nellie Stevens holly and 8 to 12 feet for Green Giant. Too close and they compete and thin out in the middle.

Nellie Stevens holly and eastern red cedar both handle heavy Piedmont clay. Just keep the site from staying soggy, since even tough plants dislike wet feet.

Green Giant arborvitae and eastern red cedar – both need little pruning and hold their color year-round.

Fall or early spring, so the roots establish before summer heat. Water deeply and regularly through that first year.

With fast growers like Green Giant, most yards see a solid screen in about 3 to 5 years. A staggered double row fills in faster.

Yes. Our Tree and Shrub Maintenance Plan keeps your ornamentals healthy year-round — scheduled inspections plus insect and disease treatment by licensed applicators, so problems get caught early instead of after the damage shows. One team handles the whole yard, turf and shrubs alike.

Need Privacy on a Blank Lot?

We lay out and plant fast-growing privacy screens across the southern suburbs – sized and spaced right, and never another failing Leyland cypress. Text us to screen your yard.

Sources

NC State Extension Gardener – What Can I Plant for Privacy?

NC Cooperative Extension – Problems With Leyland Cypress

Clemson Cooperative Extension HGIC – Leyland Cypress Alternatives

NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox – Nellie R. Stevens Holly

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Ken Erickson Chief of Ops
Ken is the unofficial chief of operations for LawnPanther.com. He handles the website content, marketing, engineering, as well as running the turf and weed control side of the business. Ken resides in Fuquay-Varina, North Carolina, holds a license for applying herbicides and pesticides on lawns and ornamental plants with the state of North Carolina. His background is in environmental biology, chemistry, and safety engineering, working for the USDOE in both research and administration. He plays a supporting role, helping his son Aidan run Lawn Panther. He formulates the herbicide and fertilizer programs applied across the south Raleigh suburbs for Lawn Panther. Ken is a life member of the American Foreign Legion, Post 116 and the Disabled American Veterans. He holds a BS in Marine Science, an MS in Environmental Science, and a MS in Public Health (MSPH) and brings decades of retired-career experience in chemical oceanographic research, chemical and biological safety, and environmental health management. Since Ken has been retired he spends his time in his large yard planting and cultivating landscapes. He is very familiar with most of the ornamentals grown in the south as well as diseases and treatments. Ken writes Lawn Panther's technical content on turf science, weed identification, pesticide handling, application safety, and environmental stewardship — translating regulated-industry experience into practical guidance for homeowners and HOAs. He personally comes out to consult with clients regarding many issues on plant health. Ken is certified through Hunter University as a Lighting Designer and a Lighting Specialist — the manufacturer training program behind FX Luminaire landscape lighting — and applies that design and troubleshooting background to Lawn Panther’s landscape and holiday lighting work.